Painting notes for the M25
I think I've already posted something about this but I'm too lazy to go and check, so please bear with me if I seem redundant.
Let's see, for the weapons, I primed them first, then painted with flat black enamel and dry-brushed gun metal enamel. I didn't bother with the wash on the weapons. Easy, really. Once I figured it out.
For the black parts on the figure, I didn't even prime them, just flat black and chrome silver enamel for highlights. I probably should have just used grey, but I started with silver because I wanted the belt buckle to look like it was metal. Once I started, it looked ok so I stayed with it. After all, I wouldn't want to have to clean the brush and change paints and all that. I'm really lazy.
The base is an MSG generic sci-fi base with a bit of 5mm plastic tubing superglued to the surface, primed, med-grey base coat, matt sealed, washed with black acryllic thinned with water and dry-brushed light grey. I've noted elsewhere that this is the 'recipe' some one used to make tie-fighter models and I was happy with the result.
For the blue parts, first I disassemble the figure, primed the orange, spray painted blue (no airbrush-why bother when you can just get a can of blue?) and then dry-brushed light blue. Again, no wash. I was afraid of losing some detail but in hindsight it wouldn't have done much harm. Washing with acryllic is very easy now that I know what to do...
If you want to know what to do, I recommend these two articles:
http://www.scififantmodmadrealm.com/LJWAD.html
and
http://www.geocities.com/themodelworkshop/documents/washes.html
I hope these links work. If they don't, just google it and you'll find what you need.
I'd like to add a little to what you'll learn from these articles.
Let's see...
*With drybrushing, the amount of paint on your brush is never constant. That means that sometimes when you want just a little tiny bit you get a lot instead. Start by painting over areas that are going to need more anyway, and start lightly. You can start digging in once the paint really starts dissappearing. It's very fun, by the way, to see all of that detail emerge.
*With washes, definitely use a different type of paint and definitely seal your base coat. You can get different results depending on whether you seal with matt or gloss. I used matt over my enamel base coat, then used acryllic paint diluted with water. You'll need to experiment a little, but I found it was easy to get the hang of after ruining only one pharoid chamber!
These two techniques took me a little while to figure out, but it was worth it as it has reinvigorated my interest in the hobby. If anyone else gets into it, then great. It's quite fun!
mo
Let's see, for the weapons, I primed them first, then painted with flat black enamel and dry-brushed gun metal enamel. I didn't bother with the wash on the weapons. Easy, really. Once I figured it out.
For the black parts on the figure, I didn't even prime them, just flat black and chrome silver enamel for highlights. I probably should have just used grey, but I started with silver because I wanted the belt buckle to look like it was metal. Once I started, it looked ok so I stayed with it. After all, I wouldn't want to have to clean the brush and change paints and all that. I'm really lazy.
The base is an MSG generic sci-fi base with a bit of 5mm plastic tubing superglued to the surface, primed, med-grey base coat, matt sealed, washed with black acryllic thinned with water and dry-brushed light grey. I've noted elsewhere that this is the 'recipe' some one used to make tie-fighter models and I was happy with the result.
For the blue parts, first I disassemble the figure, primed the orange, spray painted blue (no airbrush-why bother when you can just get a can of blue?) and then dry-brushed light blue. Again, no wash. I was afraid of losing some detail but in hindsight it wouldn't have done much harm. Washing with acryllic is very easy now that I know what to do...
If you want to know what to do, I recommend these two articles:
http://www.scififantmodmadrealm.com/LJWAD.html
and
http://www.geocities.com/themodelworkshop/documents/washes.html
I hope these links work. If they don't, just google it and you'll find what you need.
I'd like to add a little to what you'll learn from these articles.
Let's see...
*With drybrushing, the amount of paint on your brush is never constant. That means that sometimes when you want just a little tiny bit you get a lot instead. Start by painting over areas that are going to need more anyway, and start lightly. You can start digging in once the paint really starts dissappearing. It's very fun, by the way, to see all of that detail emerge.
*With washes, definitely use a different type of paint and definitely seal your base coat. You can get different results depending on whether you seal with matt or gloss. I used matt over my enamel base coat, then used acryllic paint diluted with water. You'll need to experiment a little, but I found it was easy to get the hang of after ruining only one pharoid chamber!
These two techniques took me a little while to figure out, but it was worth it as it has reinvigorated my interest in the hobby. If anyone else gets into it, then great. It's quite fun!
mo
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